The Timeless Elegance of Panama Hats: History, Craftsmanship, and Style
Published On: September 19, 2025 By: ray herb

Introduction
Hats have always played a very important role in the history of fashion.
There is a hat that you may not be able to name, but you must have seen it.
It is the Panama Hat。
It is also known as the best straw hat in the world.

In the world of high fashion, no one can resist the fashionable charm of Panama hats!
Its unique taste and tone, whether you are wearing formal clothes or casual clothes,
No matter what your temperament is, as long as you wear a Panama hat, you will have a unique and elegant temperament.
Each of these Panama hats is in a different state of wear and tear; though faded to a dull cream from years of abuse, they retain their elegance, and looking at them in winter brings back pleasant memories of summer and cold drinks.
—Peter Mayle, “About Taste”
For decades, the Panama hat has been closely linked to Hollywood, and has become a favorite accessory for many celebrities. Paul Newman, Ernest Hemingway, Winston Churchill, and today’s Johnny Depp, Sean Connery, and even actress Monica Bellucci, as well as celebrities from the fields of film, television, literature, politics and business, have all been impressed by its elegance and charm!
A small hat can bring a finishing touch to the overall style, so it is not difficult to understand why it can maintain its timeless fashion vitality all over the world.

Today we will talk about the magical Panama hat from the aspects of historical origin, craftsmanship, and fashion value.
The History of the Panama Hat
If you ask someone where Panama hats are made , the answer is likely Panama. However, Panama hats are actually made in Ecuador from the stems of a local grass called toquila.
In 1835, a businessman named Manuel Alfaro came to Ecuador and brought straw hats to Panama City, and then shipped them to California, USA through Panama City.
The misleading name “Panama hat” came from the Gold Rush in California at the time, when gold miners purchased their hats in Panama on their way to California.
In the early 20th century, the construction of the canal stimulated the demand for workers and further promoted the development of Ecuador’s straw hat weaving industry.

Toquila’s unique straw properties make it lightweight, resilient, and easily bendable, making it an excellent material for weaving tools. Panama hats woven from toquila are breathable, lightweight, comfortable, and durable , making them a favorite among gold prospectors.

Toquila’s unique straw properties make it lightweight, resilient, and easily bendable, making it an excellent material for weaving tools. Panama hats woven from toquila are breathable, lightweight, comfortable, and durable , making them a favorite among gold prospectors.

In the 1930s and 1940s , Panama hats were seen in many classic Hollywood films. Because they appeared so frequently in movies, they were also popularized around the world.
In “Gone with the Wind” , the unrestrained Rhett Butler drove a horse-drawn carriage through Peachtree Street, stopped in front of the last low house, took off his Panama hat, nodded exaggeratedly and politely, smiled slightly, and looked nonchalant yet elegant – this may be many people’s first impression of the Panama hat.

Robert Redford’s handsome and suave demeanor in the 1974 version of “The Great Gatsby” is deeply memorable; Gregory Peck in “To Kill a Mockingbird” vividly interprets the romance and perseverance of a scholar; Paul Henreid’s gentlemanly look with a strong holiday vibe in “Casablanca” remains a styling guide for elegant people even decades later.


Later, the Panama hat became a symbol of the British royal family and was very popular among European aristocrats and socialites.
Nobles often wear it to participate in sports, social activities and other activities.

Businessmen and politicians love to wear it with their suits, while fashionable celebrities love to wear it with their casual outfits.
During the Chanel era in the 20th century , Chanel’s unique men’s clothing for women made the Panama accessory gradually popular among women and was also used in various women’s clothing combinations.

In 2012, the Panama hat was selected by UNESCO to be included in the list of intangible cultural heritage , which shows the historical significance of the Panama hat and its extraordinary artistic value.
In the era of handmade manufacturing, only the upper class could afford the finely woven top-quality Panama hats, and the fans of Panama hats included prominent customers such as Prince Charles, Churchill, and Roosevelt.
Today, with the changing times, Panama hats are a common sight on every major fashion week runway every summer. Although most of them are not of pure Ecuadorian descent, they are generally referred to as Panama hats by the fashion industry based on their shape and the feeling of wearing them.

Panama hats displayed at the Chanel Cuba show
Over the years, the Panama hat’s popularity has never been reflected in famous luxury brands.
The value of a high-quality Panama hat lies in its workmanship, high-quality materials, time-consuming manual craftsmanship, and the lengthy processing procedures of experienced craftsmen. Every stitch and thread reflects the value of the Panama hat.
Panama hat production process
Raw material collection and processing
The hot and rainy climate of the equatorial rainforest along the coast of Ecuador is very suitable for the growth of Toquilla . This palm-shaped plant from the Cynaraceae family is the raw material for weaving Panama hats.

A fully grown Toquilla has long, straight stems topped with broad, fan-shaped leaves.

As the raw material for weaving straw hats, only the “tender stems” that have not grown out can be collected, which the locals call “cogollo” .

The thin leaves are wrapped in the hard shell of cogollo, and this hard shell must first be peeled off.

Using traditional tools – sharpened antlers, the accordion-folded layers of thin leaves are separated.

Pinch the end of the stem with your toes, hold the leaves with both hands and pull them left and right, tearing from the tip to the end:

Cook the separated leaves separately, stirring gently during cooking to prevent them from tangling.

After cooking, place in a ventilated place away from light to dry.

This process is equivalent to “pre-shrinkage treatment” , which prevents the blades from shrinking after weaving and during cleaning, thereby causing the hat to deform.
Bleaching, braiding, trimming
The shade-dried leaves are placed in wooden boxes and fumigated with sulfur using a very traditional process.
The bleaching is completed by simmering it with charcoal fire and sulfur for a day.
Because of this process, traditionally crafted Panama hats often have a faint smell of sulfur. The weavers cut the bleached leaves into the desired fineness. This fineness determines the hat’s weaving time and finish.
Start by weaving the two leaves together and slowly weave from the center of the top of the hat.

The weavers bend over the primitive frames and work until the work is finally completed.

The weaving will leave 10-15cm of leaves.
After trimming, the hat will be washed and dried in the shade before entering the bleaching chamber for a second bleaching.

Softening, ironing, shaping
Stack several hats together and hammer them, and sprinkle sulfur powder between the hats during the hammering process to carry out the third bleaching.
In order to ensure that each hat is hammered with the same force and frequency, the order in which the hats are stacked up needs to be constantly changed. After softening, the hat body is trimmed again to make it smooth.
Now fix the hat on the wooden mold and iron it with an ironing pad.

During the ironing process, sulfur powder is continuously sprinkled into the hat, and then ironed again after cooling.

The production of the most primitive basic hat shape is completed here.
It was then handed over to hatters who transformed it into various styles.
Panama hat grading
Although the material used to make Panama hats is simple, they are very expensive because of their exquisite craftsmanship.
Panama hats can be divided into twenty grades in total, with prices ranging from tens of dollars to thousands of dollars.


The most straightforward and easiest way to judge the quality of a Panama hat is its density .
The hat is judged by the number of rows of blades passing through the longitudinal and weft directions in a unit length of 1 inch (about 2.54 cm). The more rows there are and the denser the weave, the higher the price of the hat .
When the width of the leaves is reduced by half (twice as thin) , the circles on the hat become denser, which means the weaving is tighter, the longer it takes, and of course the higher the price.

The stems and leaves are as thin as hair, maintaining an extremely high density. It takes several months to weave a hat. The preciousness of this is not only culture but also art.
What are some recommended brands?
1, Ecua Andino Hats

Founded in 1983 in Ecuador as a handicraft seller, the world-renowned Panama hat brand Ecua Andino Hats strives to connect people, countries, and even continents through fashion and culture, challenging the popular perception that traditional Panama hats are worn by Ecuadorian farmers. Today, Ecua-Andino Hats’ hats are available worldwide, available in select boutiques and even featured on international fashion shows.
Brand official website: https://ecua-andino.com
2, THE.H.WDOG

T HE.H.WDOG is a handmade hat brand from Harajuku, Tokyo, Japan. Its owner and team incorporate playful and cute design attitudes into their products with a playful mood. In addition to the Panama hat mentioned today, it also has many categories of hat styles. Friends who like it can pay attention to the official website for more information.
Brand official website: https://www.thehwdogandco.com
3, STETSON
Founded in 1865, Stetson is not only the largest hat manufacturer in the United States but also the oldest cowboy hat brand. Its strong Western-style hats feature wider brims and crowns, and more exaggerated shapes. While these straw hats aren’t strictly Panama hats, they are made in the United States from high-quality straw, making them a great choice for those who love the cowboy style.

Brand official website: https://stetson.com
4, CHRISTY CLASSIC PRESE

Founded in 1773, CHRISTY has been manufacturing helmets for the British Royal Police for nearly two centuries and is currently the world’s largest hat manufacturer. Christys’ Panama Hats combine authentic Ecuadorian weaving with British craftsmanship, delivering timeless elegance.
Brand official website: https://www.christy.co.uk
5, Mossant Stanley

Mossant, a handmade hat brand originating in France. The brand’s distinctive French style exudes understated elegance. Mossant’s panama Hats combine traditional Ecuadorian craftsmanship with Parisian fashion design, offering a lightweight and breathable feel with both elegance and modern flair.
Brand official website: https://mossant.com
6, Borsalino
This Italian hat factory has over 150 years of history. They remain committed to handcrafting their hats using machinery dating back to 1857. Each hat takes about seven weeks to produce, which is a significant expense.

Brand official website: https://mossant.com
7, Bailey Braid Hat
One of America’s oldest hat brands, Bailey Braid Hat was founded in 1922 by Hollywood star George S. Bailey and it has a long list of loyal celebrity fans. Featuring luxurious materials and exquisite craftsmanship, the Panama hat is undoubtedly Bailey’s most iconic design.

Brand official website:https://www.borsalino.com
8, Mamasita
Mamasita, also known as the ‘Hat Factory’, is a company dedicated to Panama hats. Its name means ‘extreme excellence’ in Spanish. Mamasita has been crafting Panama hats for over 150 years, and its factory is located in Montecristi, Ecuador — the world’s most famous Panama hat town.

Brand official website:https://mamasitas.com
Types Of Panama Hats
1, Fedora Style

Elliptical front and back, the brim slightly upturned, with a pinched front crown creating a pointed shape;

2, Optimo
The Optimo style, popular in the 20th century, features a raised ridge along the center of the crown, giving it an elegant and vintage look.


3, Planter
The Planter style features a rounded brim and crown, with a wider brim and raised sections at the center and edges of the crown, creating a recessed groove in between.


How to choose a Panama hat according to your face shape
First of all, it is best for most people to choose a beige Panama hat, which can make the face look whiter and more rosy, and the whole person looks more energetic.
Wide brim

Suitable face shape:
1, Big round face
Effect: Make your face look smaller
2, Square face
Function: balance the edges and corners
3, Long face
Function: Neutralize the angularity of the face and the long face, modifying long face
Medium width brim

Suitable for standard and versatile oval face
Narrow brim

Suitable face shape:
1, Wide face with high forehead
Function: Balance the proportions of the upper and lower parts of the head. The raised brim design can also visually reduce the height of the forehead and adjust the proportions of the face.
2, Short face or baby face with smaller head
Function: Lengthen the facial lines, choose a hat with a larger taper to lengthen the face; choose a hat with an upturned brim to visually lengthen the face.