What’s The Difference Between Real Silk And Mulberry Silk?

Introduction

When a sales assistant tells you it’s “100% silk,” she might not be telling the truth.

A few days ago, a customer contacted me for help: “I bought a shirt labeled ‘silk’ at a mall, but the care label says ‘90% mulberry silk + 10% spandex.’ Is this really silk? Was I cheated?”

I believe this question has troubled many people.

Open shopping apps, and some product titles say “heavyweight silk,” some say “100% mulberry silk,” and others say “silk-mulberry silk blend”… These terms are dazzling.

Today, we’ll thoroughly clarify: are mulberry silk and silk the same thing? If not, what’s the difference?

More importantly, we’ll uncover a secret that merchants will never tell you—how much of “silk” clothing is actually genuine mulberry silk?

The Difference Between Real Silk And Mulberry Silk

A revolutionary conclusion: They are related as “species” and “genus.”

To summarize:

Silk is a broad category, and mulberry silk is a type of silk.

Using a biological analogy: silk is like a “mammal,” and mulberry silk is like a “human.” You can say “humans are mammals,” but you can’t say “mammals are humans.”

Similarly, you can say “mulberry silk is silk,” but you can’t say “silk is mulberry silk.”

What exactly is silk?

The national standard in China defines silk as textiles made from natural protein fibers secreted by silkworms or certain insects.

In other words, as long as the silk is spun by a silkworm, regardless of what kind of leaves the silkworm eats, or whether it was raised in a captive environment or the wild, the fabric woven from it can be called “silk.”

Therefore, silk is actually a large family, including but not limited to:

• Mulberry silk (domesticated silkworms, which eat mulberry leaves)
• Tussah silk (wild silkworms, which eat oak leaves)
• Castor silk (which eat castor leaves)
• Cassava silk (which eat cassava leaves )
• Camphor silk (which eat camphor leaves)

However, within this family, mulberry silk, due to its superior quality, largest production volume, and widest application, has gradually become synonymous with “silk,” just as “Coca-Cola” has become synonymous with cola.

A secret that merchants will never tell you: Blended fabrics are the norm

If you go shopping, you’ll notice a phenomenon: pure mulberry silk clothing is becoming increasingly difficult to find.

Most clothes labeled “silk” are actually blends.

So the question arises: can clothes containing 90% mulberry silk and those containing 30% mulberry silk both be called “silk”?

The answer is: both.

National standards do not stipulate that “mulberry silk content must reach 90% or more to be called mulberry silk.” As long as it contains mulberry silk, it can be labeled as “mulberry silk” in the composition, only the specific content must be stated.

However, in marketing, merchants exploit this by playing word games:

• Substituting “silk content” for “silk fabric”
• Calling “blended” “modified silk”
• Calling “low content” “luxury silk.”

Therefore, you’ll find that many clothes labeled “silk” on the market range in price from 99 yuan to 1999 yuan. Behind the price difference lies a huge difference in mulberry silk content.

Common Types of Blended Fabrics

Since blended fabrics are common, let’s break down some of the most common “mulberry silk blends” to see if they’re worth buying.

1. Mulberry Silk + Spandex (Most Worth Buying)

• Common Ratio: 90%-95% Mulberry Silk + 5%-10% Spandex
• Uses: Knitwear, fitted skirts, base layers
• Advantages: Spandex provides elasticity, preventing deformation and ensuring comfortable, non-restrictive wear.
• Disadvantages: Spandex is a synthetic fiber, not heat-resistant, and prone to aging and breakage if not properly washed and cared for.
• Purchase Recommendation: This is the most worthwhile blend type. 5%-10% spandex barely affects the luxurious feel of silk but greatly enhances its practicality. Many high-end brands use this ratio.

2. Mulberry Silk + Polyester Fiber (Most Common Trap)

• Common Ratio: 20%-50% Mulberry Silk + 50%-80% Polyester Fiber
• Uses: Affordable shirts, dresses, scarves
• Advantages: Inexpensive, crisp and wrinkle-resistant, easy to care for.
• Disadvantages: Loses the skin-friendly feel and breathability of real silk; feels stuffy in summer; feels rough and stiff.
• Purchase Advice: Buy with caution. If the content is less than 50%, it’s basically “synthetic fiber disguised as silk.” Merchants love to use this fabric to advertise “silk” because it’s low-cost and high-profit.

3. Mulberry Silk + Cotton (Comfort Option)

• Common Ratio: 50%-70% Mulberry Silk + 30%-50% Cotton/Regenerated Cellulose Fiber
• Uses: Casual shirts, T-shirts, loungewear
• Advantages: Moisture-wicking and breathable; feel between silk and cotton; easier to care for than pure silk.
• Disadvantages: Reduced luster, prone to wrinkling.
• Purchase Recommendation: Suitable for everyday wear seeking comfort and value, especially suitable for sensitive skin.

4. Mulberry Silk + Wool/Cashmere (High-end Blend)

• Common Ratio: 70%-80% Wool + 20%-30% Mulberry Silk
• Uses: Autumn and winter knitwear, scarves
• Advantages: Wool provides warmth, silk provides luster and smoothness, making wool non-itchy.
• Disadvantages: Expensive, troublesome to wash and care for (wool + silk = double the delicacy).
• Purchase Recommendation: A common blend for high-end wool sweaters, worth buying, but have a budget for dry cleaning.

How to determine if a “silk” garment is worth it?

Step 1: Check the care label for the words “mulberry silk”

• “100% mulberry silk” ✅ Congratulations, this is genuine mulberry silk.
• “90% mulberry silk + 10% spandex” ✅ High-quality blend, ideal for everyday wear.
• “50% mulberry silk + 50% polyester fiber” ⚠️ Check the price; if it exceeds $50, it’s not worth it.
• “100% silk” ⚠️ Be wary; it might be tussah silk or other types of silk, and there is no specific fiber composition listed.
• Only says “silk” without any percentage ❌ Put it down immediately; this is either a substandard product or a deliberate attempt to obscure the actual composition.

Step 2: Check the content and calculate the cost

There’s a rough cost estimate in the industry:

Raw material cost of mulberry silk fabric: approximately $40–70 per meter (depending on grade and quality)
Material used per shirt: approximately 1.2–1.5 meters
Raw material cost of a pure mulberry silk shirt: approximately $50–100

Adding design, manufacturing, processing, and brand premium, it’s practically impossible for a 100% mulberry silk shirt to retail for less than $80–100.

Therefore, if you see a “silk shirt” selling for $30, you can reasonably assume that its mulberry silk content is unlikely to be more than 30%.

Step 3: Feel the texture and check the luster

• High content (over 90%): Soft and smooth to the touch, with a natural pearly luster, feels like baby skin against the face.
• Medium content (50%-90%): Slightly rough or smooth to the touch (depending on the type of synthetic fiber blended), the luster is either too bright (like plastic) or dull.
• Low content (below 50%): Almost no silk feel, more like the texture of synthetic fiber or cotton.

Step 4: Burning Test (Most Accurate)

Take a small strand of fiber and ignite it with a lighter:

• Mulberry silk: Extinguishes immediately upon removal from the flame, has a burning hair smell, the ash is black granules that crumble into powder when pinched.
• Tussah silk: Burning characteristics are similar to mulberry silk, but if chemically treated, the ash may be lumpy and difficult to crush.
• Synthetic fiber imitation silk: Continues to burn after removal from the flame, has a sweet smell like burning plastic, the ash is hard and cannot be crushed.

Why is “pure mulberry silk” becoming increasingly rare?

If you go shopping, you’ll notice a trend: pure mulberry silk clothing is becoming increasingly difficult to find.

This isn’t due to high costs (although they are), but rather because:

1. Consumers’ demand for “easy care” has increased .
   Pure mulberry silk is too delicate; it can’t be machine washed, exposed to direct sunlight, wrung dry, or easily snagged. Modern people don’t have time to pamper their clothes, so brands prefer blends to make garments “easier to wear.”
2. Design needs:
   Pure mulberry silk is too soft and doesn’t allow for a crisp silhouette. To create tailored suits, trench coats, and jackets, blends are necessary.
3. Maximizing brand profits:
   Blended fabrics are cheaper but can be priced close to pure silk—because consumers can’t tell the difference. This is many brands’ “profit secret.”

Therefore, pure mulberry silk is shrinking from “everyday wear” to “luxury/intimate apparel.”

In the future, you might see 100% mulberry silk in pajamas, underwear, scarves, and high-end formal wear; while blends will become the mainstream in everyday shirts and dresses.

A chart to understand the truth about “mulberry silk vs. real silk”

Label on Care Tag	Actual Meaning	Buying Recommendation
100% Mulberry Silk	Pure mulberry silk with no other fibers	✅ The premium choice. Ideal for next-to-skin wear and special occasions.
90% Mulberry Silk + 10% Spandex	A high-quality silk blend that maintains the luxurious feel of silk while adding stretch and comfort	✅ The best balance of comfort, durability, and value. Recommended for everyday wear.
50%–80% Mulberry Silk + Polyester/Cotton	Medium-level blend. The silk feel and benefits are reduced due to the addition of other fibers	⚠️ Check the price carefully. Consider it only if the price is reasonable (e.g., under $70).
Below 30% Mulberry Silk + Synthetic Fibers	Low silk content blend with limited silk characteristics and little authentic silk experience	❌ Not worth buying. It is mostly a synthetic fabric with a “silk concept” rather than real silk quality.
Only Says “Silk” Without Percentage	The fiber composition is unclear and the actual silk content may be low	❌ Avoid it. A reliable product should clearly state the fiber percentage and silk type.

Note:
For the US market, terms such as “100% Mulberry Silk”, “90% Mulberry Silk + 10% Spandex”, and a clear fiber composition label are the most reliable indicators of quality. Always check the care label instead of relying only on marketing words like “silky,” “silk-like,” or simply “silk.”

Final Advice from Aung Crown

In the world of silk, “pure mulberry silk” is a belief, “high-content blends” are a lifestyle, and “low-content borderline” is a trap.

Next time you shop, remember these three things:

1. Only look at the care label, don’t listen to the sales assistant.
2. 90% or more mulberry silk + spandex is the best choice for everyday wear.
3. “Silk” with less than 50% mulberry silk is just psychological comfort.

Hopefully, this article can help you find that truly worthwhile garment in the fog of “silk.”

(Note: This article is for informational purposes only. Market prices are greatly affected by brand, craftsmanship, and design premiums, and are for reference only. Please refer to the actual care label when purchasing.)

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